W. Blake Gray, our U.S. editor, recently had an enlightening discussion with master distiller Bruce Joseph about Rye whiskey and its thrilling comeback.
Once seen as passé, Rye whiskey is revamping its image and now boasts a variety of unique flavors.
Consider this: while a bottle of Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet—one of the most celebrated wines in the U.S.—sets you back $200, there’s an array of artisanal whiskeys available at more accessible price points.
Exploring Old Potrero Rye Whiskey
Instead of splurging on a single bottle of Silver Oak, why not indulge in two bottles of Old Potrero 6-Year-Old Straight Rye Whiskey? This distinctive rye has spent six months aging in repurposed Silver Oak Napa barrels.
The result is longer-lasting enjoyment with exceptional quality.
Despite both the Old Potrero distillery and myself calling San Francisco home, I only visited last month for the first time.
My first taste of Old Potrero rye whiskey goes back to its inception.
Admittedly, I wasn’t impressed back then, and it took me nearly twenty years to give it another try.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that the whiskey has grown noticeably better over the years.
Joseph shared that the distillery’s journey began with its first bottling in 1996, using whiskey that was just over a year old.
He noted that it has taken the team about four to five years to achieve a standard they felt was truly worthy of their craft.
Crafting a Distinctive Flavor
Throughout his career, Joseph has primarily worked with one company but has gathered a wealth of diverse experiences.
After completing his degree at San Francisco State in 1980, he joined Anchor Brewing, where he helped create Anchor Steam, one of America’s pioneering craft beers.
At that time, the landscape of craft brewing was sparse, with fewer than five craft breweries operating in the entire country.
When Joseph joined Anchor, only a dozen people made up the team.
He fondly remembers a time when craft beer faced skepticism, as most consumers considered its hoppy flavors too bitter—an outlook that hardly resembles today’s craft beer renaissance.
Bruce Joseph has dedicated countless years to perfecting Rye whiskey production.
In 1965, Fritz Maytag, from the famous washing machine family, saved Anchor Brewing from closure by investing a substantial part of his inheritance into it.
He realized that growing the craft beer market was essential.
By the 1990s, with the American whiskey scene stagnating—especially in traditional areas like Rye, historically linked to figures like George Washington—Maytag began exploring innovation in whiskey.
Rye whiskey was once a staple in the American market before Prohibition dismantled many small distilleries, paving the way for Bourbon distillers in Kentucky.
This shift left Rye whiskey largely forgotten for decades, especially since its production suited regions outside of Kentucky, while the government favored corn farming for Bourbon production.
When distilling began in 1993, options for Rye in the Bay Area were limited to just a few options: Old Overholt, Jim Beam Rye, and Wild Turkey Rye, but sourcing them was no easy task.
Additionally, crafting Rye whiskey is notoriously more complex than using corn or barley common in Scotch production.
Joseph pointed out that their brewing background gave them a unique edge; the early whiskey-making stages mirrored brewing techniques.
Plus, they enjoyed the freedom to experiment extensively, thanks to the support from Anchor Brewery’s established infrastructure.
Aging Techniques and New Releases
Initially, Old Potrero used whiskey yeast, but Joseph decided to incorporate beer yeast for its rich flavor complexity, a practice that continues today as the distillery operates independently from the brewery.
When Old Potrero Rye first launched, it was priced higher than many mainstream ryes, initially appealing to consumers looking for artisanal and local spirits.
Though its flavor was bolder and less sweet than Bourbon, the whiskey carved out its niche through continuous experimentation.
Initially, the distillery aged its Rye exclusively in new charred oak barrels while the broader industry often opted for lower-quality alternatives.
Recognizing the need for innovation, Fritz forged partnerships with a cooperage in Missouri willing to collaborate.
Today, Old Potrero utilizes extra-fine grain American oak that air-dries for two years before it is toasted and briefly charred.
In the world of American whiskey, “charred” means that these barrels undergo combustion during the charring process.
In 2010, Maytag sold Anchor Brewing as he sought to take a step back from leadership responsibilities.
The brewery changed hands and was eventually sold to Sapporo, a Japanese brewery, while the distillery was rebranded as Hotaling & Co. They later moved to a smaller facility near San Francisco’s ferry terminal, which had initially been established for gin production; however, whiskey remains their primary pursuit.
As I sampled the Silver Oak-aged Rye, I realized just how much my palate has evolved; I now find the flagship Old Potrero Straight Rye 6-Year-Old far more enjoyable than I did in the past.
This version, matured longer in superior barrels, offers an incredibly smooth sip with malty notes and a flavor profile that recalls dark bread.
On the other hand, the whiskey aged in Silver Oak Napa Cabernet barrels maintains its maltiness while introducing a delightful cherry note.
While it doesn’t taste exactly like Silver Oak, its influence is certainly noticeable.
Beyond this, Old Potrero also offers a Toasted Barrel version, aged for 17 months in Petite Sirah Port barrels.
This expression features an upfront spicy character, with a notable cherry flavor that blossoms in the mid-palate, showcasing how extended maturation in Port barrels enhances the wine’s influence.
Old Potrero has also amassed enough aged stock to produce limited editions, such as “Hotaling’s Whiskey”—a 16-year-old Bottled in Bond made entirely from malted rye.
This release captivates the palate with grassy notes alongside hints of dark bread and black pepper, making it an exquisite choice neat.
Although it comes at a higher price point, the lengthy aging process justifies the investment.
Joseph emphasized that once someone develops a taste for rye, many Bourbons can seem rather lackluster in comparison, clearly demonstrating the rich complexity that Rye whiskey has to offer.
Here is the transformed Gutenberg block according to your specifications:
Source: Wine-searcher
