The role of sulfur in winemaking remains a hot topic of debate.
Recently, winemaker Anders Frederik Steen, stationed in Ardèche, sparked further discussion on this issue with an Instagram clip shared by More Natural Wine.
He underscored a critical point: while many organic and semi-natural winemakers effectively utilize sulfur to craft excellent wines, he personally believes that adding sulfur can actually detract from the experience.
Steen expressed his frustration, claiming that sulfur prevents what could be an even richer wine experience.
Sulfur’s Role: Taste vs. Texture
When seven industry experts weighed in, a common theme emerged: sulfur seems to affect the texture of wine more than its taste.
Rebekah Wineburg, who makes wines at Quintessa and Post & Vine in Napa, observed that high sulfur content tends to compress the mouthfeel, often leading to a harsh finish.
Paul Wasserman, co-director of Becky Wasserman & Co, echoed her sentiment, pointing out that sulfur is primarily noticeable in terms of texture, imparting a drying, bitter note, especially at the end.
However, some experts cast doubt on sulfur’s taste.
Patrick Cappiello, who owns Monte Rio Cellars in Sonoma County, argued that sulfur is generally imperceptible once the wine is bottled; he believes its effects fade over time.
Cappiello contends that although sulfur might alter a wine’s profile, it frequently enhances cleanliness and appeal, while unsulfured wines are often riddled with flaws.
Aromatics and the Influence of Sulfur
Wasserman also noted that the aromatic effects of sulfur are more pronounced than its tasting notes.
He mentioned that producers reducing sulfur levels often remark on the impact of higher sulfur on aromas.
In her own experience, Alice Feiring, a writer and the founder of The Feiring Line, noted that too much sulfur can produce unpleasant scents, reminiscent of skunk or cabbage.
Wineburg supported this view, indicating that excessive sulfur can dull the complexity of a wine’s aromas.
Cappiello, consistent with others, mentioned that he can only detect sulfur right after its application, not in the finished product.
He explained that while sulfur possesses a distinctive odor that some might associate with reduction, its smell usually diminishes after bottling.
Understanding Sulfur Detection: Sensitivity and Thresholds
One burning question remains: at what levels does sulfur become detectable? The answers vary, as individual genetic factors come into play, influencing how people experience bitterness and sensation.
Wasserman argues that perceptions differ, but even individuals who typically don’t notice sulfur’s bitterness can feel the dryness in wines with higher sulfur content.
Many professionals agree on certain threshold levels.
Feiring suggested that 30 parts per million (ppm) marks the point of perception, which aligns with John McCarroll, portfolio manager at Coeur Wine Co. He reiterated that sulfur levels above 30 ppm clearly convey dryness and diminish a wine’s vibrancy.
Wasserman added that while he notices sulfur at around 30 to 50 ppm, anything above 80 ppm is undeniably detectable.
The way sulfur is perceived depends heavily on two essential factors: the timing of the wine assessment and when the sulfur is introduced in the winemaking process.
Feiring observed that when sulfur is added just at the crush stage, it typically doesn’t affect the final product, while additions just before bottling often yield more pronounced effects due to reduced integration time.
Wasserman elaborated, suggesting that incremental small additions during fermentation can lead to negligible levels in the finished wine, unlike larger doses prior to bottling, which might compromise a wine’s liveliness.
Industry professionals generally agree that white wines are more vulnerable to sulfur’s effects due to their sensitivity and lower tannic structure.
Wasserman noted that this sensitivity is often heightened in wines with elevated pH and lower acidity, such as some White Burgundies, compared to more acidic varieties like Riesling.
Wineburg shared a personal anecdote about a young red wine where she applied too much sulfur, resulting in a tight, overly simplified product.
Despite various viewpoints on sulfur’s impact, most industry experts acknowledge its importance in the winemaking process.
Christy Frank likened sulfur to a “corset” for wine, especially high-acid whites, helping them retain their lively characteristics.
She pointed out that wines lacking adequate sulfur often show starkly different profiles.
Cappiello described sulfur as a binding agent, enhancing cohesion and benefiting from its antiseptic properties during fermentation.
Opinions diverge on whether fears surrounding sulfur are overstated.
Feiring strongly disagrees with this notion, while others, like Frank, find the detailed metrics tedious but remain intrigued by winemakers’ strategies.
McCarroll expressed exasperation with the sulfur debate, suggesting it often boils down to personal taste rather than ethical issues.
Wineburg added to this discussion, arguing that the idea that sulfur compromises a wine’s character is exaggerated, as moderate amounts can actually concentrate flavors and enhance aromas.
Cappiello reflected on his earlier experiences with sulfur-free wines, highlighting their numerous flaws which might discourage consumers from exploring natural wine.
He emphasized the importance of a balanced approach, advocating for judicious sulfur use to produce cleaner, more attractive wines.
In summary, many industry professionals like Wineburg promote moderation in sulfur application.
Meanwhile, Frank reiterated that sensible sulfur levels are crucial for ensuring fermentation stability, especially in challenging years.
McCarroll encapsulated the prevailing sentiment in the industry: an aspiration for a more rational and constructive conversation regarding sulfur use in winemaking.
Source: Wine-searcher
