As I tasted the wine, I felt a compelling urge to spit it out.
Yet, interestingly, my concentration sharpened significantly compared to my first impressions.
I was now acutely aware of two key elements: the quality of my saliva and the sensations that lingered on my palate.
Geosensory Tasting
In recent years, analyzing my saliva has become a critical aspect of my tasting routine, influenced by the innovative ideas of Jacky Rigaux and Jean-Michel Deiss surrounding geosensory tasting.
Rigaux’s book, Geosensorial Tasting: The Art and Manner of Tasting Wines of Origin, published in 2015, opened my eyes to this methodology.
Frustrated by conventional analytical approaches, Rigaux sought to revive a more sensory experience akin to that of 19th-century wine enthusiasts, winemakers, and merchants.
Those historical aficionados employed a tastevin, a shallow cup that emphasized visual character, mouthfeel, and the wine’s texture, often focusing on its persistence.
In their evaluations, aromas took a back seat, limited by the tastevin’s design.
However, Rigaux identified a notable shift in wine appreciation practices throughout the 20th century.
The 1960s were particularly transformative when Jules Chauvet, a Beaujolais wine merchant and chemist, introduced a new olfactory-focused method at the request of France’s INAO institute.
This approach became fundamental in legitimizing the notion of appellation contrôlée, standardizing aromatic compounds through specific glasses and terminology—a framework that quickly garnered traction among oenologists, winemakers, journalists, and educators.
Mindful Tasting
Yet, Rigaux and other influential winemakers such as Henri Jayer, Jean-Michel Deiss, and Anselme Selosse have argued that these modern techniques and advancements in viticulture and oenology have blurred the lines between true terroir wines and those produced industrially.
They propose that while the nose can sometimes be misled, the mouth provides a more trustworthy perspective.
This belief has sparked renewed interest in examining wines through the lens of mouthfeel and texture.
By prioritizing trigeminal sensations and the qualities of saliva over visual and aromatic indicators, this approach aims to deepen our understanding of wine and the intentions behind its creation.
This concept resonated with me instantaneously.
It illuminated the distinctions among various wines that hadn’t been easily apparent at first glance.
It compelled me to engage more deeply with my own physiology, striving to understand the underlying mechanisms at play.
Research on this topic is growing, with notable publications such as Neuroenology: How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine by Gordon M. Shepherd, alongside inquiries by neuroscientist Gabriel Lepousez into salivation and interoception.
Diagramming this complex web prompts further questions: Which salivary glands react to certain wine compounds? How do traits like acidity, tannins, and umami influence these reactions, and how can they be traced back to the practices of winemakers and the essence of the terroir? These fascinating avenues of inquiry have transformed my perspective on both my body and my tasting techniques, stirring meaningful introspection.
Current Selection
To truly grasp the essence of a wine, particularly one categorized as vin de lieu, I’ve enriched my mindfulness practices by incorporating yoga and meditation.
This focus helps me relax my muscles and enhance my concentration.
Additionally, I aim to foster a better understanding of my digestive health, maximizing my receptiveness during my tasting experiences.
The results have been remarkable.
I’ve achieved heightened well-being and an expanded tasting ability.
In a time where moderate wine consumption often faces scrutiny, I advocate for a mindful tasting approach.
Inspired by geosensory philosophy, this method serves as a holistic practice that benefits both our health and our appreciation of wine.
Originating from the Anjou region of the Loire, I find it a perfect setting to explore the concept of vin de lieu, thanks to the presence of terroir-focused vignerons.
A particular standout worth noting is Benoît Courault’s Les Guinechiens 2021, available for US$63 at Golden Hour Wine.
This lush Chenin Blanc comes from ancient vines that thrive in the schist hills of the Layon valley.
The wine encourages the production of a richly textured saliva, both thick and refreshing, ultimately delivering a satisfying, complete sensation, highlighted by subtle umami notes.
It truly encapsulates vibrancy and depth, making it a remarkable choice for any wine lover.
Source: Decanter
