Reviving Rosé Wine’s Reputation
In an exciting development for the wine industry, France and Italy are teaming up to enhance the reputation of rosé wines, which have long been underestimated.
This initiative focuses on what is known as “rosés de terroir,” emphasizing wines that reflect the unique characteristics of their origin and the craftsmanship of dedicated winegrowers, rather than merely catering to commercial demand.
The goal is to produce rosés that exhibit aging potential comparable to prestigious red and white wines on the international stage, moving beyond the conventional practice of drinking them immediately after production.
Despite their historical competition in the global wine market, the collaboration between these two powerhouse nations is now gaining momentum.
Recently, Philippe Guigal, head of France’s Rosés de Terroir association and owner of Château d’Aquéria in Tavel, made his way to Milan, inviting Italian vineyards to join this innovative movement.
His vision is to create the “world’s first collection of Rosés de Terroirs,” aiming to cultivate a niche market for collectible rosés that can be appreciated over many years.
Gathering of Visionaries
The Rosés de Terroir Association, which brings together 59 wineries from France, Italy, Greece, and Spain, recently hosted an event at the Grand Hotel et de Milan.
This gathering featured a delightful tasting session showcasing various rosés and Italian rosati, skillfully led by Alfredo Moccia, chief sommelier at 67 Pall Mall, alongside chef Francesco Potenza.
Rather than a competitive atmosphere, the event focused on solidifying a “terroir rosé manifesto” that received backing from notable rosé producers in France, including Guigal.
Most of the participating French wineries hail from Tavel, a renowned region in southern Rhône acclaimed for its exceptional rosé wines.
Italian wineries eager to collaborate exemplify a similarly high standard of quality.
During the Milan event, a selection of 22 wines was highlighted, including three from Bardolino in Italy: the 2023 Villa Calicantus Cuvée Chiar’Otto, the 2023 Guerrieri Rizzardi Cuvée Keya, and the 2021 Le Fraghe Cuvée Traccia di Rosa.
Notably, Villa Calicantus is a new member of the Rosés de Terroir association, while both Le Fraghe and Guerrieri Rizzardi have been part of this esteemed group since 2021.
With Guigal’s call for unity, there’s potential for even more outstanding rosé producers to join.
Emphasizing Quality Over Tradition
Guigal articulated the association’s primary goal: to champion exceptional terroir-driven rosés globally.
He expressed a desire to attract more winemakers of high-quality rosés to their ranks.
With the rosé market experiencing remarkable growth over the last two decades, Guigal sees a new developmental phase on the horizon, emphasizing the importance of diversifying offerings that showcase terroir.
He envisions creating a micro-market for collectible rosés that can mature over a decade—a promising and attainable goal.
Still, producing rosés that break with tradition proves challenging in Italy.
For instance, Villa Calicantus’s 2020 Chiar’Otto initially struggled for approval from the Bardolino Chiaretto DOC tasting panel, which evaluates wines against specific standards.
Despite this hurdle, gaining recognition in the elite circle of international rosé wines is a point of pride for Daniele Delaini, the passionate winemaker behind Villa Calicantus.
Delaini champions a philosophy rooted in honoring the distinctive qualities of each vineyard, allowing grapes to thrive naturally without interference in aspects like alcohol content or color.
He believes that each vineyard and wine should convey its unique narrative, reflecting its special characteristics and vintage.
Regardless of official DOC classifications, the blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, and Sangiovese grapes cultivated in south-facing pergola vineyards consistently shows promise.
This client-driven sentiment resonates with French counterparts, highlighting a growing mutual appreciation for top-quality rosé across borders.
Source: Wine-searcher
