Exploring Wine in La Belle Province
Tucked away in southeastern Canada, the vibrant wine region of Quebec offers a delightful getaway.
Here, charming artisanal restaurants, innovative distilleries, and inviting wineries beckon visitors to discover the local culture.
When I told friends about our plans to explore the Routes des Vins in Quebec, the reaction was often one of surprise.
The notion of winemaking in Quebec seemed unusual to them; one even incredulously suggested a trip to France instead.
Yet, in what is affectionately known as La Belle Province, with its diverse culture and love for life, the rise of vineyards—known as ‘vignobles’—over the past 40 years paints a different picture.
The winemaking journey began in 1979 in Dunham, located in the Eastern Townships southeast of Montreal, officially blossoming by 1985.
Currently, the Conseil des vins du Québec recognizes nine unique wine regions, home to around 165 wineries that produce over three million bottles annually from approximately 80 grape varieties.
While hybrids still dominate, traditional Vitis vinifera grapes are gaining traction.
Interestingly, the growth of this wine industry links with climate change, leading to milder temperatures in a region historically noted for its Icewine.
Although British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley and Ontario’s Niagara region often steal the spotlight in Canada’s wine scene, Quebec is quickly emerging as one of the country’s most dynamic wine areas.
Those in search of quality wines will find much to admire in the boutique wineries, where passion-driven vintners skillfully blend time-honored techniques with modern innovations, often prioritizing organic practices.
Charming Villages and Scenic Journeys
A short drive east of Montreal unveils the serene roads and quaint towns of Montérégie, where vineyards flourish alongside wildlife.
Our initial stop was Vignoble Mas des Patriotes, an organic winery developed by France Cliche, who embarked on this venture with no prior experience in viticulture.
She meticulously nurtured her six hectares of vines by hand, overcoming the region’s challenging winters.
One of the few women winemakers in Quebec, Cliche has received accolades for her white, rosé, and red wines.
Like many of her counterparts, she cultivates hardy hybrid varieties, including Frontenac, but has also embraced classic varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
A recent newcomer to her vineyard, Chenin Blanc, reflects her adventures in South Africa.
Dunham serves as a perfect base for tasting nearby vineyards, cideries, and gourmet farm-to-table restaurants.
A standout destination is l’Orpailleur, established in 1982 by four partners, including winemaker Charles-Henri de Coussergues, who trained in southern France.
This winery is celebrated for its guided tours, viticulture museum, tasting room, and restaurant.
Guests can explore a range of wines that includes the distinctive fortified La Part des Anges.
An outdoor self-guided path offers insights into innovations like wind turbines and winter protection techniques.
Another trailblazer in the Brome-Missisquoi valley, Vignoble de la Bauge, is committed to sustainable practices.
Winemaker Simon Naud employs innovative techniques to enhance vineyard resilience, such as using sheep for natural lawn maintenance.
Unique Experiences Await
In Hemmingford, Cidrerie du Minot’s économusée enlightened us on the history of cider production in Quebec, dating back to the late 1980s, and introduced us to the rich flavors of ice cider.
Next door, Domaine des Salamandres delighted us with unique perries and mistelles, crafted from pear trees that protect against frost damage.
We also visited Vignoble Le Chat Botté, a whimsical venture brought to life by former architect Normand Guénette and designer Isabelle Ricard.
Under the sun, we enjoyed a charcuterie lunch made by local artisan butcher Jean-Simon Petit, partnered beautifully with a selection of wines, including some sparkling options.
Isabelle, who designs enchanting labels with playful motifs, shared her plans for upcoming vineyard operatic concerts.
Nearby, Vignoble Camy has successfully cultivated Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir in a unique terroir rich in fossilized shells.
Their wines have gained recognition, even featuring in some of Paris’s finest Michelin-starred restaurants—a testament to their growing reputation.
As we traveled through the Richelieu valley and beyond, we were struck by the vast landscapes dotted with wineries, cideries, microbreweries, and local markets.
The region is a treasure trove for culinary fans and anyone eager to experience Quebec’s agricultural richness.
As our adventure concluded, we made sure to bring home a selection of the exquisite wines we had unearthed, fully aware that the nuances of Quebec’s wine scene would be hard to find outside the province.
This only served to deepen our longing to return to Quebec instead of heading to France.
Quebec’s wine trails offer engaging routes like La Route des Vins Brome-Missisquoi, spanning 165 kilometers, the expansive Montérégie Wine Route at 414 kilometers, and the 194-kilometer Circuit du Paysan.
These trails lead visitors through idyllic countryside with numerous opportunities for spa days, hiking, kayaking, and cultural experiences complemented by vineyard picnics.
For those looking to explore, guided day tours from Montreal or Quebec City are readily available.
Essential Information for Your Quebec Adventure
Where to Stay:
- Hôtel Humaniti Montréal: A stylish stop with modern accommodations, a rooftop pool, spa, and a well-stocked wine cellar featuring local selections.
- Hôtel Montfort Nicolet: A historic gem in Centre-du-Québec, complete with a serene spa, gourmet dining, and beautiful gardens.
- The BOHO Dunham by Kabin: A boutique hostel providing contemporary lodging above Brasserie Dunham, along with charming self-catering cottages.
Dining Recommendations:
- Au Pâturage Espaces Gourmands: Chef Chloé Ouellet serves a fixed menu using farm-fresh ingredients in Ste-Perpétue, thoughtfully paired with wines.
- Bleu Moutarde Bistro: Situated by the riverside in Beloeil, this lovely spot offers delightful dishes alongside picturesque views of Mont St-Hilaire.
- L’Espace Old Mill: A celebrated farm-to-table restaurant near Dunham, offering a tasting menu with exquisite wine pairings presented by TV personality Jean-Martin Fortier.
- Le Roy Jucep: A lively diner in Drummondville, claiming the title of the originator of poutine, a cherished local delicacy.
- Les Cocagnes: An agro-ecological farm in Frelighsburg, hosting intimate meals from June to September, showcasing local chefs.
Shopping and Activities:
- Fromagerie du Presbytère: A cheese shop in Ste-Elizabeth-de-Warwick, where you can sample local delicacies in scenic picnic spots.
- La Miellerie King: A distillery featuring craft spirits, mead, and liqueurs with guided bee-to-bottle tours.
- Rose Drummond: A combined shop and café in Drummondville, offering local crafts, produce, and a curated selection of wines.
Traveling to Quebec:
Air Transat offers direct flights from London Gatwick to Montreal, with economy fares typically around £450 and Premium Class available for about £1,050.
Rental cars are easily accessible at Montreal-Trudeau International Airport or in Longueuil.
For tailored experiences, consider customized tours through Audley Travel, ensuring a unique exploration of Quebec’s beloved wine culture.
Source: Decanter
