Discovering Alsace: A Wine Lover’s Treasure
Tucked away in the charming northeastern corner of France, Alsace presents a delightful tapestry of quaint villages, mouthwatering cuisine, a captivating history, and exceptional wines—truly a haven for wine lovers.
Marc Wucher, representing Le Parc Hôtel in Obernai, shares insights into the region’s struggle to promote its unique identity.
He recalls a poignant memory from his past: his mother helping local men dodge German military service during World War II.
Under the oppressive rule of the Third Reich, Alsace faced attempts to erase its French identity, suppressing language and cultural symbols, leaving behind a complicated narrative.
Some locals found themselves aligned with German forces, which further complicates the historical landscape.
In southern Alsace, oenologist Marie Bordy reflects on her connection to this turbulent past while tending to Riesling grapes at the historic Château Ollwiller.
Her family history is layered; her great-grandfather fought for Germany and lost his life in World War I, while the estate itself faced destruction from French artillery.
From 1871 to 1918, much of Alsace was part of Imperial Germany, deeply influencing the region’s culture and identity.
Alsace’s architectural charm is an illustrious display of its storied past, blending medieval timber-framed homes with grand 18th-century French Baroque influences.
The diverse soils here—ranging from sandstone and slate to clay—play a significant role in the characteristics of the region’s wines.
Savoring Tradition in Alsace
The intricate tale of Alsace adds an intriguing layer to its wines and cuisine.
Hugely influenced by German culture, the region shines in its grand cru vineyards, such as Schlossberg and Rosacker, while traditional dishes highlight hearty ingredients like pork, potatoes, and cabbage.
Unique flute-shaped bottles hold the star performers of Alsace—Riesling and Gewurztraminer—eluding strict categorization under French wine regulations.
Despite the upheavals of history, representatives from the Alsace wine council are proud of their Gallic heritage.
Recently, climate change has brought unpredictable weather, alternating between heavy rain and drought.
Nonetheless, Alsace remains one of France’s driest and sunniest regions, nurturing grapes to ripeness with a finely balanced climate.
The spring and autumn months are particularly delightful for visits, as winters can be quite chilly and summers occasionally stifling.
Yet, wine enthusiasts will find Alsace attractive year-round, with 33 Michelin-starred restaurants featured in the 2024 gastronomy guide.
Scenic wine routes wind through enchanting villages adorned with half-timbered houses and colorful floral displays, each steeped in its own unique narrative.
Alsace Wine: A Snapshot of Key Numbers
- Total Land Area (2023): Approximately 15,500 hectares
- Producers: Close to 3,030, including 710 dedicated wineries and growers
- Appellations: The Alsace AP was officially recognized in 1962, accounting for about 70% of wine production.
The prestigious Alsace Grand Cru AP debuted in 1975, now representing 51 classified sites that reflect quality, covering roughly 5% of vineyard land and contributing 3.5% to production as of 2022.
- Grand Cru Varieties: Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Riesling are paramount, with newer additions like Sylvaner and Pinot Noir welcomed in designated areas, including allowed blends.
- Crémant d’Alsace: A sparkling wine made in traditional fashion, which now represents one-third of output.
- Vendanges Tardives: These sweet wines, crafted from overripe grapes, are known as ‘late harvest’.
- Geographical Layout: The region divides into the southern Haut-Rhin, boasting 37 grand crus, and the northern Bas-Rhin, which features 14.
Exploring Alsace wouldn’t be complete without a stop at Domaine Gresser, a 17th-century estate in Andlau.
With organic certification since 2010 and biodynamic status achieved in 2022, this estate showcases the essence of terroir in its single-varietal wines.
Don’t miss the Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling, famed for its minerality, or the 1983 late-harvest Gewurztraminer, a testament to the art of aging.
A visit to Maison Trimbach in Ribeauvillé, founded in the same century, should also top your list.
Renowned for its exceptional wines, ranging from accessible to highly coveted selections like the Clos Ste Hune Riesling, the upcoming 2019 vintage promises to outperform the 2018 edition due to favorable conditions.
The Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling, drawn from two grand cru sites, represents remarkable value.
In the delightful village of Eguisheim, celebrated for its culinary delights, Léon Beyer produces distinguished wines through a 14-generation tradition.
The 2015 Les Ecaillers Grand Cru Pfersigberg Riesling stands out, while the 2011 Comtes d’Eguisheim Gewurztraminer boasts a beautifully balanced flavor profile.
Head south to visit the beautifully restored Château Ollwiller, where winemaker Mathieu Kauffmann is creating refined offerings, including promising Crémant d’Alsace and intricate grand cru Rieslings from meticulously maintained plots.
Finally, Domaine Muré in Rouffach, run by a brother-sister duo, presents an impressive array of wines at various price points.
Among their highlights, the 2022 ‘V’ Grand Cru Vorbourg Pinot Noir and artisanal Crémants d’Alsace are especially noteworthy.
Exceptional Accommodations
- Le Parc Hôtel, Obernai: Combining 70 years of tradition with modern luxury, this hotel features a serene Yonaguni spa that invites relaxation and exploration in Alsace.
- Léonor Hôtel, Strasbourg: This stylishly renovated property, once a police station, offers contemporary comfort with a historic charm and features a restaurant backed by a team from the acclaimed Michelin-starred La Fourchette des Ducs.
Dining Recommendations
- Amitié, Hartmannswiller: A newly opened gem, this restaurant boasts a spacious terrace where chef Holger Strütt impresses with both regional and international dishes made with local ingredients.
The lobster soup is a must.
- La Pompette, Strasbourg: Renowned for its cozy ambiance, this eatery updates its menu monthly, providing great value while maintaining high culinary standards.
- Le Buerehiesel, Strasbourg: Nestled within the picturesque Orangerie park, this esteemed restaurant is famed for its exquisite frog’s legs, paired with a well-curated wine list by sommelier Maxime Petit.
Alsace is celebrated for its variety of exceptional grape types, including Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and especially Riesling.
Since 2021, a new classification mandates that non-late harvest Alsace Riesling be labeled as ‘dry.’ There’s also a noticeable surge in popularity for Alsace Pinot Noir and the traditional Crémant d’Alsace, with production rapidly growing in the past decade, taking up a significant portion of total wine production.
Start your adventure by ascending the 330 steps of the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg for breathtaking views of one of the tallest churches in the world.
For selection lovers, visit the Comptoir des Vignerons Alsaciens on Place Gutenberg, featuring nearly 400 wines crafted by independent producers within the walls of a charming 16th-century building.
Relish a leisurely lunch at 3.14 bistro and wine bar, which offers an impressive list of 100 wines by the glass, paired with a variety of charcuterie and cheese, all in a warm, inviting atmosphere with a speakeasy-inspired lower level.
After the meal, take a soothing stroll through Parc de l’Orangerie, adjacent to Le Buerehiesel, where lush gardens and tranquil lakes create a picturesque setting to conclude your culinary exploration.
Source: Decanter
